By saying small insects, I'm referring to insects such as bugs, bees, flies, grasshoppers, wasps, etc. These creatures range from roughly 5mm to 20mm in size. A lens of higher diopter rating is required to achieve a magnification large enough to capture the fine details. One way of doing so is to stack two +4 close-up filters, which effectively gives you a +8 diopter rating. Coupled with the 6x optical zoom (equivalent to 35mm-210mm) of the S602, I'm able to achieve sufficient magnification for tiny insects. Most of my insect pictures are taken using this combination.

However, the downside of this setup is the heavily reduced DOF. An increase in diopter rating will result in a shallower DOF. Another problem is distortions around the edges. An increase in the number of glass elements (by stacking) will cause the edges of the image to distort. The last issue (least impact) is the focusing distance. The camera can only focus at approximately 12cm away. Movements have to be slow and steady to prevent frightening these creatures off. This requires alot of practises, so do not despair if they keep fleeing upon your approach during the first few attempts. Over time, you'll realise that you're actually able to go very close to these creatures and snap them.

Meanwhile, you can do a some calculations to find out magnification factor before deciding which close-up filter/lens to purchase. The formula goes like this:

magnification factor = f / ( 1000 / d )

where
f is the maximum focal length of the camera,
d is the diopter rating of the close-up filter/lens


Take for example the S602, with a maximum focal length of 210mm. If i'm getting a +4 close-up filter, my magnification factor will be:

magnification factor = 210 / ( 1000 / 4 )
         = 0.84

Not very impressive on paper, considering the fact that a true 1.0 factor will allow you to fill the entire frame with an object of 35mm in size. Stacking two +4 filters will produce a more practical result, and using the same formula as above, my magnification factor is now 1.68. Below is an example of what I could achieve using two +4 filters.



Recommended camera settings:

1. Shooting mode: Manual
   
   
2. Aperture value: F8 - 11
   
   
3. Shutter speed: 1/125 - 1/220 sec
   
   
4. Auto Focus type: Normal AF, AF Area or Manual Focus
   
   
5. Additional lens/filter: Dual +4 Close-up filter
   
   
   

Now that you have sufficient magnification power and correct camera settings, the next step is how to take a good insect shot. An excellent insect macro generally comprises of the following 3 elements.

• Subject should be sharp and in focus.
• Background is complimenting to the subject
• Composition well executed

To achieve the above 3 points require alot of hands-on practice and a sound knowledge of your equipments' capabilities. Below are some pointers to share.


Getting a sharp focus is one of the most basic fundamentals in insect photography. For relatively well-lit areas, I'll use the normal Auto Focus. Ensure that the delay between having the focus locked and pressing the shutter release fully is kept as short as possible. This is due to the fact that DOF is easily 'deviated' by tiny movements resulted from handshaking. Do note that no tripod or even monopod is used, as I find them restricting to my flexibility in composing. However, keep the shutter speed to at least 1/125 sec to minimise handshaking. For dark areas where Auto Focus might fail you, set to Manual Focus mode and very slowly move the camera back and forth until the subject gets into the 'sweet spot'. Once the subject appears sharp from the LCD, press the shutter release button fully to take the shot. The time taken is much shorter as no focusing is done and hence minimising a 'diviated' focus (a.k.a out-of-focus).

Below are two examples to illustrate an out-of-focus and sharp image.

     


After your success rate of getting the subject sharp has improved, you should move on to learn how to include a complimenting background for your shot. Background is important as a good one will make your subject stands out strikingly, while an inferior one will distract the viewer and compromise the beauty of your subject. Color contrast between the subject and its background must be handled well too. Below are two pictures of a similar subject but with different backgrounds. Which one do you prefer?


  

A smoothly blurred-out background is always a preferred choice. This effect is not difficult to achieve, especially in macros. A close-up filter coupled with the higher zoom range of the camera will easily produce such an effect. For example, a smoother background is achieved when using a +4 close-up filter at 210mm focal length compared to using a +10 macro lens at 84mm focal length, although a same magnification is achieved. The challenging part is to focus your subject against a suitable background, which is preferably at least 8-10cm away from the subject. The further the subject-to-background distance, the blurrer the background is. Dark and 'messy' backgrounds are promptly avoided.


Once you're comfortable with the above two points, the final area to cover will be composition (a.k.a framing). Composition adds the final touch to a picture as it reflects how the subject is being presented to the viewer. First, try getting the insect to face the viewer at an angle (not directly). A side view is not a bad idea too. Avoid having the insect's back facing the viewer as the frontal details are most critical in insects photography. Secondly, if possible, try applying the Rule of Thirds when framing your subjects. Placing the subject slightly off-center can yield quite positive results. Below illustrates two samples with and without applying the above 2 points.